This helps the wines to retain good acidity (pH3.2-3.4 as opposed to the Roussillon 3.6-4.0) and a sense of freshness. I was lucky to visit some of the finest wineries in the region. Clos Mogador - the hippy originators of the Appellation - was fascinaing and frank. Ferrer and Bobet was a masterclass in modern, polished winemaking with no expense spared. Their amazing gravity-fed winery is pictured above, and their new Syrah plantings...planted downhill rather than along the terraces...this would never be allowed in Collioure!
Best of all was El Givot, with its tiny cellar space barely allowing us room to taste. Amazing to think that super-scoring wines are produced here, wines with such depth and character. And the place is up for sale...if I had the money, I'd snap it up!
The region is still relatively undeveloped (1500 hectares, with room for 10 times that), but high production costs, low yields and the big style make it something of a hard sell. I really felt we'd got a lot in common. However, in Priorat, irrigation is permitted, and more varietals are permitted every year it seems. And the points keep rolling in, and prices keep rising. However, as in the Roussillon the 'bread and butter' wines are suffering, with volume wines from co-operatives just not getting to market. Grape growers were paid 4.50€ a kilo 10 years ago, now it is half of that.
I hope to visit again and spend more time talking to producers. The problems there are very similar to our own, and I'm sure we could use each others' help to find a way out of these tough times. Both regions have so much to offer....they just need to make it pay.
